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Monday, May 23, 2011

Chef Hiroshi performs magic tricks tomorrow

One of the best food experiences in town happens only four times a year. It’s the contemporary kaiseki dinner at Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas, and the next one is tomorrow. There are still some tables available; I’d definitely recommend attending one of these events, where chef Hiroshi Fukui and his team play with new ingredients and go to town with technique.

Listing the names of the dishes and ingredients just doesn’t begin to evoke what you get on the plate. Fukui’s culinary orchestration of local ingredients and Japanese and French technique are the most deft and seemingly effortless on the island. Then he takes this talent and puts it into a kaiseki format—nine dishes that adhere to the season and roughly follow a traditional arc, including a jewel-like amuse bouche and a broiled seasonal fish.

The crazy thing is this dinner costs only $75. (For an additional $25, you get the wine pairings chosen by master sommelier Chuck Furuya.) I got Chuck to send me a sneak peek at the dinner opener—sautéed akule atop lentil salad with roasted-garlic and soy butter sauce, accented by cumin and thyme. And that’s just the amuse bouche. See the full menu here.

PS: I had a variation of the island tako tatsutaage at a previous contemporary kaiseki at Hiroshi, and it was one of the best octopus dishes I have ever had in my life. The tako shockingly tender, its flavor magnified by its trappings, not buried by it.

For reservations, call 533-4476.

Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 in Permalink

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About This Column

From five-star restaurants to hidden holes-in-the-wall, Biting Commentary will let you know what’s hot and what’s not. Find out the latest restaurant news—who’s opening, who’s closing, which chef is moving on, where the great special dinners are. Discover the best menu items, fabulous wines, stunning cocktails, hand-crafted beers. Be the first to hear about upcoming food events and festivals.

Food editor Martha Cheng graduated from Wellesley College with degrees in Computer Science and English. She's a former line cook, food truck owner, Peace Corps volunteer and Google techie. Follow her on Twitter @marthacheng.


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