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Friday, June 1, 2012

Ice cream sandwiches from ColdFyyre and ChadLou's

ColdFyyre ice cream sandwiches. Unfortunately, they look better than they taste.

Why is it so hard to find a good ice cream sandwich?

Maybe I'll never be satisfied. In my childhood, It's Its were, well, it, a San Francisco invention of a chocolate dipped oatmeal cookie and vanilla ice cream sandwich. Ice cream is all the rage in San Francisco, but nothing will ever replace my fondness for It's It. Whenever I visit my parents in California, I still pass the It's It factory on the way home from the airport.

On a recent nostalgic binge, I went looking for a ice cream sandwich. The Whole Foods freezer aisle carries a pretty good one, by Ruby Jewel from Portland ($5.99/sandwich). I love the one in which tender, dark chocolate cookies sandwich a bracingly minty ice cream.

Next to Ruby Jewel in the freezer case are sandwiches by ColdFyyre ($5.99/sandwich), a Honolulu ice cream company that uses Naked Cow Dairy cream and local ingredients like apple banana and even sea asparagus in its ice cream. Unfortunately, while its ice cream is decent, the sandwiches are a disappointment. The thin discs of sugar butter cookies are hard, forcing the ice cream out when you bite into it, and the ice cream is icy, all of them, whether chocolate, vanilla or lilikoi.

Ice cream sandwiches at ChadLou's. Left: vanilla ice cream between chocolate chip cookies. Right: chocolate ice cream between peanut butter cookies.

Better are the ice cream sandwiches at ChadLou's, a cute coffee and ice cream sandwich shop in Kailua. ChadLou's carries Dave's ice cream, and they assemble the sandwiches ($2.50/sandwich) to order. You can mix and match flavors with cookies like peanut butter and chocolate chip. A classic vanilla ice cream sandwich with soft chocolate chip cookies is the bees knees here.

I keep going to Bubbies to try its ice cream sandwiches, but I just get waylaid by the mochi ice cream. I guess this is Hawaii's answer to the ice cream sandwich, and a perfectly satisfying one at that. And I don't even have to commit to a single flavor combination: for the size of a sandwich, I can get three pieces, all different flavors of chewy, wrapped ice cream wonder.

45 Kihapai St., Kailua, 263-7930,

Posted on Friday, June 1, 2012 in Permalink

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About This Column

From five-star restaurants to hidden holes-in-the-wall, Biting Commentary will let you know what’s hot and what’s not. Find out the latest restaurant news—who’s opening, who’s closing, which chef is moving on, where the great special dinners are. Discover the best menu items, fabulous wines, stunning cocktails, hand-crafted beers. Be the first to hear about upcoming food events and festivals.

Food editor Martha Cheng graduated from Wellesley College with degrees in Computer Science and English. She's a former line cook, food truck owner, Peace Corps volunteer and Google techie. Follow her on Twitter @marthacheng.


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